June 2009
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FacebookBy Natasha Evdokimoff
A couple of years ago, my husband and I were on a hedonistic, self-guided tour of the Napa Valley wine region. It was late August, sweltering, and the vines were all heavily laden with fruit that was nearly ripe for the picking.
The more we roamed around, the more impressed I became by the number of wineries that follow organic practices. I’ll never forget the words of one vineyard manager at a picturesque organic property we visited, as he leisurely guided us between rows of lovingly tended vines.
“One hundred years ago,” he said, with a hint of a wry grin, “this
wasn’t called organic farming – it was just called farming.”
Point taken. As with all types of farming, pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers have become ubiquitous in viticulture over the last century. But there are many producers that have steadfastly adhered to organic practices, and many others that are making diligent strides to go green as well.
The good news is, that despite common misconceptions, well made organic wines taste great. Sure, it’s possible to find examples that are thin and insipid, but that’s true of any wine, organic or otherwise. The bottom line is if the producer is truly dedicated to the craft, the wine will be of quality. Any organic producer worth their salt (or worth their grape juice, as the case may be) will quite rightly tell you that the grapes they use can be more flavourful, better balanced, and impart greater complexity to the finished product than their non-organic counterparts because the fruit is grown in healthier, more nutrient-rich soil.
Indeed, the entire basis of organic wine making is rooted in the belief that healthy soil produces vines that are naturally resistant to disease – which means no chemical treatments are required. Organic viticulturalists employ time-honoured techniques to foster healthy vineyard environments and to keep the soil alive and vital. Cover crops are a common tactic, whereby various low-lying crops and flowers are planted between the vines, and later turned into the soil for their nutrient value as they decompose. Some wineries go much further, taking a holistic approach to vineyard management that includes plant diversity (to attract beneficial birds and insects), the use of solar or geothermal energy, LEED certified buildings, and dry farming. It’s also not unusual to see flocks of chickens or sheep meandering through organic vineyards – a clever method of keeping bugs and weeds naturally under control, as well as to create a constant supply of fertilizer.
Good stuff. But before you hit the wine shop, do your research. There is no legal international definition for what constitutes organic wine. Standards are different from country to country, so labels can be deceptive.
To be deemed 100% organic, Canadian wines must be made from fruit that is certified organically grown (without the use of chemical or synthetic products, or any bioengineering whatsoever) and have no sulfur dioxide added. SO2 occurs naturally in wine in trace amounts, but most wines get an additional dose after fermentation to help stabilize and preserve the beverage. The effects of sulfites on the body are a hot debate topic, but it’s important to note that sulfur dioxide is an additive in many types of foods. Wines that have added sulfites but still meet other criteria can be labeled as “organic” or as “made with organic grapes”.
The popularity of organic products is on the rise. In 2007, organic sales increased between 15 and 80 percent, depending on the sector, with beverages up an encouraging 24 percent over 2006. With plenty of reputable organic wine producers to choose from nowadays, there’s more reason than ever to raise your glass. Cheers!
TAKE ACTION:
- Go to www.winesofcanada.com/organic_wines.html to find out more about organic wines in Canada. You might be surprised just how many regulations and stipulations there are to follow. You’ll also find a listing of and links to a number of organic Canadian wineries.
- Retail wine stores buy mostly what they know will sell. Make a point of telling the manager that you support organic wines, and ask questions about the wines while you’re there. The more interest the store has in a certain product, the more they will bring in.
- Many tour companies now offer packages that feature tours of sustainable wineries. As a rule, tour groups get the royal treatment at wineries, and a real insider’s view of how things operate. Worth a look.
- There are plenty of web sites that are dedicated to organic wine, but one of the best is www.organicwinejournal.com. You’ll a find listing of organic wineries in all of the major wine producing countries of the world, as well as many timely and informative articles, videos, and links to various food & wine blogs.
- Most specialty wine shops host an organic wine festival each year to help promote certain products and educate the buying public. Check the calendar of events at your favorite shop, and inquire about the possibility of an organic festival with the owner.
- The next time you buy organic wine, track your actions to see the difference you are making by living more sustainably.
June 4th, 2009 at 11:07 am
If you are in Calgary, check out the Ferocious Grape at 833 10 Ave SW (across from MEC, free parking beside the Ferocious Grape). They are committed to having the largest PERCENTAGE of sustainably produced wines in Calgary. Sustainably produced wines include all the sub-categories of organic, biodynamic, LIVE certified, LISA certified and non-certified yet produced without synthetic inputs. If you have any questions, feel free to ask the Sommelier, Keith.
June 15th, 2009 at 8:07 pm
I think I will try to recommend this post to my friends and family, cuz it’s really helpful.